Thanks to Michelle Obama’s interest in
Americans’ epidemic obesity, we’re hearing more these days about eating
disorders, even this innovative one, described in last Sunday’s supplement to
the Boise, Idaho Times…
DIETARY SUICIDE FAD
An ambulance sits
vigilantly in the floodlit parking lot of the Burger Blitz in suburban Lincoln,
Nebraska. Its two attendants quietly observe a particular patron inside the
restaurant, a man who has been eating ravenously.
The man suddenly stops
mid-chew. A few morsels tumble from his distended craw. He shudders, turns the
color of a plum. In mortal agony, he grasps for a breath beyond his reach, and
finally pitches forward into the remnants of his meal, a cardboard bucket of
chicken bones, ketchup, and lard.
“Let’s hit it,” cries the
taller attendant. They leap out, pull a collapsible gurney from the ambulance,
and roll it into the restaurant.
The 26-year-old manager,
Bobby Lee Dilworth, meets them at the table. Like the other employees, Dilworth
wears a tiny checkered chef’s hat adorned with the well-known Burger Blitz
emblem, a cow grinning from a meat grinder.
“Evening,” says the
shorter attendant, unbuckling the gurney’s straps.
Dilworth nods. “Third one
this week,” he complains, wringing his hands. “I wish something could be done.
Last night one just laid there getting stiff while other customers waited for
the table. It’s not fair, you know what I mean?”
The attendants take this
as a professional challenge. “Well, here,” says the taller one, “we'll deal
with him while you clean up the table. Place'll be back to new in a minute.”
Skilled though they are,
the attendants nonetheless cause some little commotion. Several patrons look up
curiously from their boxes of Gutbusters and Chicken Tetrachloride. Perhaps
they do not know what has happened, but then again, perhaps they do.
Perhaps they are aware of
the trend that has begun to sweep the Midwest like prairie fire: suicide by
gluttony.
The foremost expert on
this phenomenon is Dr. Karl Mandrake, Chief of the Nutrition Department at the
respected Sloan-Smithson Institute in Albany, New York.
“This fad shouldn't
surprise anyone,” Dr. Mandrake confides over lunch. “After all, we are a nation of consumers, so what could
be more natural than for consumption itself to become a popular form of
suicide?
“Most of these
self-destructive acts have occurred in fast-food outlets for economic reasons,”
Dr. Mandrake continues, folding his Reuben sandwich to wrestle it into his
mouth. “Look at it this way: twelve or fifteen GooBurgers or Fat Dogs or
whatever they’re pushing these days are still cheaper than a bottle of sleeping
pills. In fact,” he grins, leaking a rivulet of mustard onto his tie, “you even
have change coming.”
The owners of these
restaurant chains seem surprisingly unbothered by the fad. Harold Colon,
President of the National Faux Food Association, says, “Suicide is tragic, but
we must face facts. The fact here is that to us, these people are customers,
too. Let me tell you, customers are very special people—even though I’ll admit
these folks sometimes make a mess. From some of the stories we’ve heard, you’d
think the other customers would walk out. But they don’t. That’s what we call
in our business ‘brand loyalty.’ Anyway, we feel fortunate that hardly anything
disgusts our clientele.”
The issue is causing
battle lines to be drawn.
On one side is the U.S.
Surgeon General, who has recommended that fast-food restaurants employ
full-time security guards to enforce healthy eating practices and verify that
patrons carry suicide insurance.
On the other side is the
might and wile of the fast-food industry. Explains Faux Food Association’s
Colon, “In business you find a need and fill it. One chain is now
trial-marketing a package that caters exclusively to suicides. They offer the
meal—a meal especially rich in embalming preservatives, I might add—and the
cleanup, and burial in a large styrofoam box. Their motto is, ‘We do it all for you.’”
In a way, one concedes,
this is progress. But is it good for the country in the long run? Researcher
Dr. Mandrake answers, through a mouthful of blackened redfish and creamed
spinach, “That's not for me to say. I don’t get involved in politics. I’m just
into health.”